Scott’s Blog | MagiCurl
Some thoughts on hair that is thinning.
While I do not have the solution to thinning hair – I have found some things that can be of help.
1) Many with fine hair or thinning hair are too gentle with their scalp for fear of loosing more hair if they over work their hair. I have found that if you massage your scalp through out the week on a dry scalp or as you are in the shower – you can increase the growth of your hair by 1/2 inch in a year – you may think that is not much – but it is actually a lot when you think about the rubbing motions you do on your scalp can increase hair growth speed – so that is definitely something to consider is to massage your scalp with the pads of your fingers. This feels great to bring blood flow up to your scalp and stimulate your scalp with blood that brings nutrients to the follicle under your scalp.
2) Some clients take Biotin and see results with taking this.
3) Your hair sheds 60, 80 – 100 hairs a day! This is Natural Shedding. What you do not want to do is what I call Forced Shedding and this happens by breaking hair off unintentionally. You can cause hair breakage by letting your hair get dry, then sleep on a Cotton Pillow Case that can cause your hair to develop weak spots on the length of the hair from the friction of your head moving around on a cotton pillow case and over time break off causing thousands of different length hairs all over your head that want to stand out and look frizzy or float around uncontrollably. Solution: Hydrate your hair with a Deep Conditioner at least twice a month, sleep on a Satin Pillow case or a breathable Silk Pillow Case if the Satin Case causes heat issues for you. Try to eliminate a brush or detangling comb from your routine and do as much as you can with your fingers and hands for removing tangles.
4) You may have learned as a youngster to not rub your head with a towel – as this friction aggravates the cuticle of our hair to make it frizzy – and over time develops weak spots along the hair shaft to case breakage. The same thing happens over time by sleeping on a cotton pillow case – so using a T-Shirt, Paper Towels or what is called Flour Sack Towels (usually thinner than a t-shirt) to squeeze your hair after applying your styling products or to remove excess water from your hair.
5) Lathering agents really do dry out the hair but more so the scalp as the lathering agents dry out the scalp and tighten the scalp area restricting blood flow. This can lead to or cause all sorts of issues from dandruff, over active oil production to compensate for the dryness and stripped skin cells. Solution: Use Sulfate Free Cleansers.
Using Silicone based products prevent conditioners to hydrate your hair. Products can lay on top of the silicone build up and the hair under the plastic coating dries out leading to Forced Shedding.
Eliminate these issues along with the other options and you will see a difference in your hair.
Scientist have mentioned in my research that many do not loose as much hair as they believe, but what happens is that the diameter of the hair gets smaller. So what that means is that we somewhat maintain the same amount of hair over time but the actual individual hair gets thinner making our hair feel like we have less.
Our hair also goes in cycles of growth, falling out and a period of rest – and this is why I believe Scalp Stimulation is very important to keep what we do have healthy and to be encouraging growth in those rest periods.
These methods of working with your hair will reduce Forced Shedding (breakage) and over time – realistically 6 months to a year or so – you can notice that you may not grow more hair but it will seem thicker as you are not breaking hair off as much and it is keeping what you do have in better condition to not break off.
I look forward to hearing about your own journey with thinning hair if you have it. I have only covered partially of what is possible and am not a Doctor, so I can not talk about prescriptions or offer medical advise on your Thyroid, Hormonal Fluctuations, etc. – but am only offering my experience of what has worked for others.
Please get medical advise from your physician on all matters of your health as your hair is one of many considerations that can reveal deeper issues of what may be going on physically and internally.
Working to keep what hair we do have in a healthy state is MagiCurl.
Feel free to ‘like’ this page to your Facebook, share on your website and get out the word on my shortest blog article yet!
Make your scalp come alive by a simple Scalp Alive Re-Boot with:
I love to refresh my clients scalp before a cut by applying this to the scalp only and then I do my cut and do a cleansing session – and I do this myself once or twice a month and wanted to share it with you all.
This is wonderful feeling and is done in the following way -
I will pull out my Jessicurl Stimulating Scalp Massage Oil and spray into my hand a couple/few times- using my other hand I dip into it with the pads of my fingers and apply at different locations on my scalp. Once done (I love the temple areas most and back of the head near the neck for some reason) I use the pads of my fingers and really dig in and slowly rub around for a couple/few minutes. There is a nice natural fragrance from the oils that are in this product. It is a 2oz spray bottle and have used it many times with a lot left over. There are other ways to use this but just wanted to share this basic way of using it on a dry scalp (as it can also be done on a wet scalp as well).
I leave this in for 30-60 minutes (or even over night). Feels light and like ‘something is happening’ with no burning for me.
Next, I want to use something that has mint or another stimulator and I have found that when I use Deva’s No Poo and apply a gum ball amount and apply as I did with the Scalp Massage Oil with dipping into the hand that has the cleanser in it and applying it here and there on my scalp and massage real well with only the pads of my fingers- it has a wonderful feel to it and hydrates a bit as well.
If I want to Alternate – I use something new from NYC Curls with The Curl Cleanser and this feels very nice with peppermint and is even more noticeable for me on my scalp. Again, massage into your scalp and notice the aromatherapy that comes out to make your senses come alive.
These products are invigorating and feel wonderful to do all year long – but even more so during the winter to Re-Boot your Scalp with all the dry air coming out soon. There will be no oil residue left behind. Your scalp will feel refreshed…and so will you.
Follow up with your conditioner and realize that a stimulated scalp is alive and MagiCurl!
This article is for those of you who follow The MagiCurl Method and are using Sulphate Free Cleansers and also use water soluble products (Conditioners and Styling Products) with no silicones, parebens and polymers and over time you are experiencing issues that make you wonder if you are doing the right thing based on some minor frustrations that you can not explain. Well this article will help to explain some of what may be going on.
A Re-Boot is something that can be done with hair that is in great shape and using the proper products but have the following issues:
`Your hair has a feel to it that doesn’t feel like hair but more like product left in and your hair is getting weighed down.
`Your scalp feels like it has a film on it or even has a sheen to it that looks somewhat oily or greasy.
`Fine wavy hair is heavy or limp or even ‘dirty’ looking.
`Curls are not bouncy.
`Hard to get good volume.
There are more, but lets take a look at a few of the above for this article.
A Re-Boot is not a Detox – as you are not removing plastics that have bonded to your hair. Do a search on this page for “Detox from Plastics” and you will know the difference of what a Detox is and what a Re-Boot is.
So a Re-Boot is mainly about removing excess hydration that has accumulated on the hair and/or scalp that is no longer needed.
When you first experience some hydration on frizzy hair or hair that has been abused by shampoo, coated with silicones and dried out over time from lack of moisture and shredding your hair with a cotton pillow case and using heat tools to curl or flat iron your hair – for years – your hair is starving for nutrients and hydration. Your first visit with me explains all the bad guy ingredients and we go over the correct things to incorporate into your daily hair routine and I teach you about good guy ingredients that are in the products I recommend. When I do that first time service you actually see the improved condition of your hair from a one time application. As you work this method you see your hair getting better and better over time – but a few will experience too much hydration from repetition of using the same products.
Yes, you can overly hydrate your hair and scalp.
Some manufactures tell you to do a Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Rinse and if you do a search online for this you will find many versions of it. Many fans out there of ACV and I do not do them as I smell the vinegar (even though others say they do not), but it is somewhat acidic and will close up the cuticle as well as cleanse your hair and scalp. Good to try if you have an open cuticle and your hair is High Porosity to help seal up your hair and give you a bit of shine.
Some will tell you to do a Baking Soda treatment. If you have fine Low Porosity hair I can recommend this every couple of months – not often as it is alkaline and will ‘ruff’ up your hair a bit and some love it but it can be over done if used too much and dry out your hair. Do not use Baking Soda on High Porosity hair.
I hardly have any issues with my hair or scalp as I use what I call the Alternating Principle – see, the point of using ACV or Baking Soda is to use something different to remove excess product from the hair or the scalp. A product manufacture will not tell you to use another competing product – but I will – as there is too much confusion as to what is out there that is Curly Girl approved and we need professional guidance from myself and others as to what are great options.
In my thinking I can use a healthy alternative that is NOT hydrating and cleanses without stripping. Whew – that is a mouthful – I have to make sure I wrote that right.
I will use Deva’s No Poo for 1 time in the shower or 2 times in a week. If my scalp feels gunky or weighed down (overly hydrated) then the next time I will cleanse with Jessicurls Gentle Lather as this can cleanse without stripping or hydrating. If I STILL feel funky – I will take some Vit. C powder and add a dusting of it – just the smallest amount and add it to either the conditioner or cleanser and cleanse as usual and even run it through my ends gently using a prayer like motion to glide it through my hair. This usually does the trick to Re-Boot my hair and scalp.
I have also used something I have been made aware of by a Curly Hair Artist named Ron Suriano of Moisture Salon in Schenectady NY – he has been using NYC Curls products (there are only 3 – Cleanser, Conditioner and Gel) and they are Curly Girl safe and their cleanser has Mint oil in it that is more noticeable and feels very nice – I alternate with that for a great cleanse without excessive hydration and my scalp and hair are clean and light feeling. This is Alternating.
This article is about alternating to achieve a new result and if you need to remove a bit of build up then you can also Re-Boot your hair and scalp with a safe odorless light dusting of Vit. C powder added to your cleanser or condition that you can get at Whole Foods Stores or Vitamin shops in Powder form.
Many times you do not need a whole new line of products if you see your scalp getting oily or feeling like there is a build up on it.
Our scalp is an extension of our skin and some skin types hold moisture more than others – it is like applying lotion and even after rinsing it off – you can still feel it. Our scalp is the same way for many as our hormones fluctuate though out the day – our body temperature can ‘warm up’ and sort of ‘melt’ excess products on the scalp (even if you rinse it all off) to look oily or greasy. So, if you love your current product line just do a Re-Boot with Vit. C. If you want to alternate then use a cleanser that does not hydrate but cleanses without stripping.
There are other methods that Curly Hair Artists use that will be kept in the salon – as we can always offer solutions that are more specific to your hair type – this article is more for general usage and can be universal in their approach.
To Re-Boot and use the Alternating Principle to revitalize your hair, curls and scalp is MagiCurl.
Here is a Press Release:
Natural Curls are on the rise with more people embracing and accepting their wavy and curly hair they were born with according to Scott Musgrave, owner of Scott Musgrave Hair in Cary, N.C.
Hair Stylists across the country & Europe are looking for advanced curly hair education to help them understand the “how to” on cutting with style & design concepts and how to teach their natural curly clients an individualized routine they can do at home.
Getting his license in 1986 and having curly hair, he was working with curls all his life. Training was very limited and it was in the year 2000 that Scott was Inspired by reading the first edition of Curly Girl the Handbook by Lorraine Massey that ignited Scott’s passion for what others are born with and began focusing his journey to be exclusive in building up his curly hair business.
Scott began reading, researching and experimenting the in’s and out’s of what has worked for other stylists and from his own clients. One mandatory step was to get training from what is known as The Deva Method and in 2011 he became a DEVA Inspired trained stylist. Scott always tells other stylists that, “This training will instill a significant understanding of products, ingredients and curl care through their cutting method and getting rid of frizz through their excellent product line.”
Knowing that each head of curly hair requires a unique blend of products, application techniques and cutting methods, he continued experimenting and expanded his reach for curly hair products with bringing another curl line into his care for curls with a brand called Jessicurl. Scott says, “Jessicurl was developed over 10 years ago through a passion for wanting a product that was made in the kitchen with ingredients not found in products back then.”
Over the past 2 years, Scott has worked hard by listening to the demand of curly hair people all over the world and is expanding the vision of what is possible with curly hair by creating a curl cutting method called The Cubist Curl Cut and a product application method that helps to get rid of frizz that he calls The “MAP”.
Also during this time Scott went online with a website at www.scottmusgravehair.com and was posting tips and guidance on Facebook and a blog called MagiCurl (found on Scott’s website) that other stylists were inquiring about product usage, cutting methods and building their own business based on what Scott was achieving. This lead to developing a private group of hair stylists that have a passion for working with curls and as the group has grown with members all over the world and the methods discussed worked and helped others to achieve their vision, it was a natural progression to have our first event of advanced curl education.
October 19 -21, 2013, in Atlanta, Georgia, he will host, along with Robin Sjoblom, the first Curly Hair Artistry Symposium for licensed hair professionals who will be attending from all over the USA and Canada. Stylists will contribute their own experience with each other and special guest curly hair artists will present information based on their own passion and methods of working with curly hair. We will even celebrate with having a toast for the author of Curly Girl the Handbook Lorraine Massey.
The event is sold out, and with talks of more to come, we have hope in knowing that curly hair as an art form is alive and well because stylists are growing with excitement to gain more curly hair knowledge and to expand our small niche arena through education. Also, what is more exciting is knowing that the clients are learning about this and are just as passionate in knowing that their hair will be treated the way it should be treated.
I get asked often “Do you do children’s cuts?” and I do. A lot of them. And the price is the same for kids as it is for adults as many children have the same amount of hair – if not even more – and I cut each curl dry one at a time, and it is intense cutting at times.
There is a ton of information to learn in a session, so as I work with the child – I am also teaching the Mom.
Getting a child’s hair cut in the Curly World is different than going to the quick cut shop and when I talk to a Mother about my service, it is more about the Mom than it is about the child.
Well…from my perspective, a kid needs to be a kid. Most Mom’s want their kids hair to be ‘easier’ to work with and not look so unkept, tangled up or frizzy. I think we can drive ourselves crazy trying to maintain our children’s hair. They are supposed to take naps, lay on the floor, roll around, put their fingers through their hair, run in the wind, ride bikes with helmets and skateboard…you know – be a kid.
A cut will help with growing out and look great – but to me, what is more important is for a child to develop a routine and have some excellent water soluble silicone free products. Save the money on getting a cut for now and go out and get the book Curly Girl by Lorraine Massey and buy some Deva or Jessicurl products (there are a couple others) and learn what the DVD shows (comes with book) and practice it as a routine with your child until it becomes a part of life for them – then when they start caring for their hair and want to embrace what they were born with…bring them in for a Curl Cut.
A child can have beautiful curls that can be reactivated with water from the tap in the morning or a spray bottle and using a t-shirt to squeeze their hair instead of a towel and sleep on a Satin Pillow Case (from Target $10-15 – reduces tangles) and wet their hair down every day and apply a bit of product, use their hands instead of a detangling come (in most cases) and let it air dry. Children can learn a Routine and use quality products and in the end you will have a child love what they were born with. With water soluble products a head of frizz can just simply be wet down and detangled with your hands in minutes and let air dry – this is how we do it, just re-wet and let dry…instead of redoing the whole head or putting their hair up…so the main thing to learn is to re-wet & dry.
So, this article is about the importance of Routine and Products more than a cut – as I have found this to be beneficial for most families that think a cut will solve the Mom’s frustrations…and it is important to have a good cut for a child, but to me – it is more important to have a routine along with great products. Frustrations melt a way when you know how to work with Kids Curls based on routine and products – as a cut alone is not going to solve a kid from being a kid…know what I mean?
Mom, you are doing wonderful and if you do not understand your child’s hair – that is okay- read the book I mentioned, keep up with this blog and invest in some good products (there are a couple others) and teach your child a routine that I know for a fact they will do on their own & you will have a sense of peace that you are doing what is best for your child’s curls – and that is MagiCurl.
The personal Curl Cut is a transformational work of art that expresses who you are in more ways than one. What fascinates me is the response I get from people about what I do for their hair. It reflects what is missing, what is desired and a sense of what is most important to them – not only directly about their hair…but indirectly about their life.
During our time as client and stylist – the art of transformation a lot of times deals with my unconscious mind (intuition) recognizing what is needed to complete the transformation. The client has a conscious desire and is expressed through words as best as they can (we all know clients do not speak ‘hair stylist talk’) – one speaks on one level and the artist hears on another level. One is not better than the other – it is just different.
While many times the art (or the service) is well received, a few times it is not – and I do not have an answer for that…not yet…and maybe some things are better off left alone and without understanding.
Or is it?
I have had a few clients this year express disappointment at times and the lesson I got after a recent visit is this – my client communicated in her message to me of what was important to her, she told me what was missing and what she desired. I sensed that this was not about the hair – yet it was through the medium of hair – what was more important to me was hearing her soul.
This is the most important part about the art of transformation – learning to listen to the soul – of your own and of the clients. Both are to be respected.
The soul can go through stages – from being: broken – wounded -healed and finally restored.
While the soul travels through stages – we artists encounter those stages as we interact with clients and get a sense of what to say and do while we work with you.
There are times when a red flag pops up in our artists soul and mostly we ignore it – only to have a verbal lashing later on or a review of our work that teaches us to approach people with caution when these flags pop up – but we over ride them to want to make you happy. We take a chance – we take a risk.
It is hard to interpret the condition of another persons soul. It is only revealed through their actions, their heart towards you and the words they use and speak.
This is not only about the Artist- as the Client can have a red flag pop up as well during a session. And those of us with curly hair know what that feels like.
So, as a red flag pops up – how do we know what to do with that?
It is only exposed after the interaction.
The soul of an artist and the soul of the client will most times connect and then there are times that it will be impossible to connect…and that is ok.
Learning how to communicate what is important to you takes self control, respect for the other person with maturity – and it is called “Boundaries”.
When a red flag pops up, we maintain self control to communicate to each other our concerns so that the relationship improves and gets better. And this is what this client was doing – expressing her red flag about my service with maturity.
If you wait, or never communicate what is important to you – you can loose self control, snap at someone over time or do something irrational.
Sensing a red flag pop up, and communicating with self control means getting used to communicating something that is making you uncomfortable. Learning to communicate while you are uncomfortable is something that is not taught much. It is something you learn with practice. By doing it.
Communicating boundaries to another person is precious and to be respected. When it is not – then do not take it personal as many times the soul of another is broken and wounded and is unable to maintain self control. Healing and restoration of the soul is not our job. When boundaries are not respected – there is something that is taught in boundaries literature of letting the individual experience a ‘consequence’. This also must be communicated as a result of not respecting an individuals boundaries and can be one of a few things like creating distance for a time being, restructuring how things can be done or if need be termination of the relationship after exhausting all possibilities. There are more, those where just a few.
A client will leave a stylist to find another or a stylist will say “I am sorry but I can not work with you.” It can go both ways when boundaries are not expressed and respected. A ‘Red Flag’ is about moving on where as a “White Flag” means I want peace and lets work together. Look at their face – is it ‘red’ with anger and has lost self control and is acting out with immaturity or is it maintaining the color of their natural skin tone with self control and willing to listen with respect.
Since this can be a wonderful interaction of expressing values, passion and beliefs to each other it is easier when we are on the same page. It gets challenging when it is not. But it is important to be heard. If one is not heard and respected then it is not a relationship.
It is my goal as a hair stylist, curly hair specialist and more so as an artist to listen to you and to respect your soul and I also will expect for my soul to be heard and respected as well. As it is a part of life to be in uncomfortable situations and to maintain self control and with maturity listen to each other with the intentions of growing together.
If a person looses self control, gets angry, creates situations to invoke strife or is immature enough to destroy someones soul – then it is time to realize it is not you – but their own heart and soul is broken and acting from it – and it is ok to create a boundary consequence.
My client will return – as we have listened to each other, grown from what is to be valued and appreciated and the relationship will be enhanced with a new sense of trust.
Living a soul filled life with maturity, love, respect and listening to each others boundaries is MagiCurl.
I got some requests for learning more about Wavy hair.
Wavy hair has it’s own unique qualities and this article will address some of what I have learned and experienced to help you all out with getting the most and best for your Wavy hair.
The cuticle of most wavy hair is a bit more closed and has more shine as well. This means that what ever you apply to your hair can just lay on top of your hair (because the cuticle is laying down more). It is important to apply products to warm wet hair. If you do a cold rinse you can prevent products from soaking in to your hair and they will just lay on top giving you weight that you do not need. I get asked if I do a cold rinse and I think (smiling) that it is unnecessary torture and REFUSE to do such a crazy thing. You may like it and continue to do it – but don’t expect it from me. Nothing worse than a cold rinse in the shower…get outta here!
So, applying products on warm wet hair soaks in very nice.
Lots of hand scrunching using most of your product application on 1/2 your hair and very little towards the scalp. You want more of the Filler on 1/2 the hair and more of the Sealer toward the hair closer toward the scalp.
Lets do this – after squeezing in your conditioner and rinsing it out or applying a 5 cent size as a leave in on 1/2 − 3/4 of your hair.
For the Filler on wet hair:
Apply Deva’s BleavIn the same way you applied your conditioner – finger combing it in and squeezing it in at a variety of different lengths BUT mostly on 1/2 − 3/4 of the hair AWAY from the scalp.
Jessicurl’s Gelebration Spray works great when you spray it in your hands and apply it the same way. I use around 7-9 pumps of the spray.
After you finger comb it through and squeeze in at a variety of lengths you want to ‘Encourage Curl’ by scrunching upward by gathering your hair in your hands from the bottom and move the hair up to your head and GENTLY squeeze and HOLD for a second or two. Too many people fling their hair around and makes for frizz…no shaking! WATCH out for how your squeeze your hair near your scalp as if you dig your fingers in and move them around you are creating frizz near the scalp.
For the Sealer:
Deva: use Ultra Defining Gel or Frizz Free Volumizing Foam and using a pump of foam or a quarter size amount of gel – rub your hands together and shoot the hand in open finger comb position and squeeze the product in at a variety of different lengths – even near the scalp – and THEN gather the hair up in your hands and lift up to scrunch and squeeze into your hair. You should hear a ’squish’ sound.
Jessicurl: using Confident Coils in 10cent size amounts apply in the same way.
After product application:
Hand scrunch a lot with your head upside down, turning your head side to side and scrunch a lot gently with your hands to get curls forming.
Use a T-Shirt to gather up your hair and squeeze and hold for a bit. The longer you hold the more water comes out and releases weight of water to help your hair dry faster. If you leave in too much water your hair will dry longer and looser.
Put clips in if you are using them. This is why you want to apply a thin coating of Gel or Foam on top as you can get some nice clip or movement when using clips and the gel will give you ‘hold’ with this.
Air dry or use a diffuser. MOST will use a diffuser to get MORE waves/curls. The Deva Diffuser is expensive but WORKS very nice.
Air dry for 15-30 minutes and THEN diffuse works great.
Some have Hooded Dryers and will ‘set’ their hair and remove some moisture THEN diffuse for a bit of volume. So a COMBO method of drying works very nice.
Learning to combine products works great too. You can Fusion Blend Jessicurl’s Confident Coils in dime size amounts as a Filler and Seal it all up with Deva’s Ultra Defining Gel in quarter size amounts. Hand scrunch a lot gently and T-shirt scrunch and hold and dry.
Fluff when finished or leave a bit of the crunch in on windy days. You can always release the crunch later for softer hair or do a partial release.
Let me know how this works for your waves. This is only the tip of the iceberg – so much more could be written on Wavy hair and one day soon I will.
Waves are MagiCurl!
‘Scott Musgrave Hair’ is my business Facebook page with many photos of clients with waves and curls and more tips.
THE INNER CURL MENTOR
When you have a Vision of what you desire – you will pursue it and it will be found. Happens all the time.
If you do not have a vision of desire – you can look, act, feel & desire other pursuits that are less than you deserve. You can fall apart psychologically and not even notice it. But we do.
Imagine a part of your make up, as a person with Curly Hair, is having in your heart an invisible guide that is called your ‘Inner Curl Mentor’. And it has been put to sleep or terminated by the salon industry from mis-treating and mis-informing you. It has also been wounded by loved ones, coaches, friends and family comments. My job is to wake that part of you up and treat you well and inform you correctly. It is time to wake up and come alive with a very important part of you that speaks-visualizes and feels how to take care of your curls and even your wellbeing.
Being a Curly Hair Artist – I collected a few thought over time on what it means to have an active Inner Curl Mentor and it is based on something I read and twisted around to make it relate to curly hair – and it goes like this:
Curls are Music to the Eyes.
Some hear the music and there are plenty out there who are deaf.
The Eyes are alert, clear and can see the dance of curls that creates harmony within – yet, some are blind and while having physical 20/20 vision – but are walking with blinders on that prevent full vision of understanding.
Let me go deeper -
Here are some responses I have noticed with those who have an active Inner Curl Mentor -
Take out your Curl Journey Journal and write the following out and meditate on some of these and RESPOND to them in areas that you are either lacking or overflowing from.
- A sense of confidence in knowing that you are doing the right things to make your hair beautiful.
(Lack of confidence in knowing how to work with your hair affects other areas of your life as well – as I work with women in my chair, I hear stories of desiring to be sexy, confident and professional. These desires are fulfilled simply by being treated well with a service experience and products that inform you on what you did not know).
- A part of who you that encourages others from knowing how to work with your own curls.
(Sadly we avoid many situations because we do not know how to Speak INTO people that genuinely encourages people and offers hope. And this is based on never experiencing a successful result ourselves. Once we do experience success and actually let ourselves enjoy the process – we WILL encourage others who USED TO BE LIKE US).
- A Relaxed-Focused-Awareness in sensing what is right for your hair vs a sense of panic, overwhelm & unmanageability.
(Loss of self-control shows up in our thinking first and reveals the thinking in our actions. If we look like Einstein and have no concerns for our hair – that is fine if you are a genius, but many women prefer not to look like Einstein and when you have peace about your hair and curls – it shows up in most everything else we do).
- A perspective that your hair is to be treated with dignity and respect.
(A perspective that has been shaped by mistreatment is revealed by unruly hair —that you think and believe is not unruly. When you go from drastic frizz to curls…it can take you time to see the qualities that are seen for the first time. Touched for the first time. Hearing genuine compliments for the first time. THEN it will sink deeply into your soul and be accepted and LIVED from and you will walk with dignity unlike any other time that you have TRIED to but could not).
So – what this comes down to realizing is that we can have confidence in who we are, encourage others along our journey, not loose self-control and to finally walk tall with a healthy esteem, a sense of humility and appreciation for how we are born and with a new sense of dignity.
A deep article for deep thinking as I have chosen not to define some things in this article and have left it to your Inner Curl Mentor to speak into YOU and let YOU define what it is that YOU desire.
Understanding the Inner Curl Mentor and seeing curls as music to the eyes is MagiCurl!
Get a glimpse into more of my before and after curly photos and tips at:
My client Kristen sent me her Diffusing Routine and wanted to share it with you for ideas to add to your own drying routine-
Now it is drying time. I have the Deva Dryer and use the lowest heat setting and lowest output setting to begin with. I diffuse dry a little different than most so bare with me. When I start I start at my roots, this is more to set the direction my crazy curls will go. I place the dryer at my roots with my head tilted to the side I’m working on. I DO NOT start the dryer prior to placement. Once I have it where I want it I then cup all the excess hair up to the dryer and start it. I do not move it for a good min or two and when I do I turn the dryer off. I do this for each section of my hair. I then tilt or flip my hair and continue to do the place, cup, dry, off, move routine at different levels starting from my crown and going down. I continue this for about 15 min. Then I start drying with cold air only. Placement of the dryer is pretty random at this point, wherever I feel it needs it. All said and done I dry my hair about 30 min total.
My hair at this point is crunchy and probably about 95% dry. See picture below. It is SUPER important to let my hair air dry until COMPLETELY dry. I typically give it another half hour to hour depending on what I’m doing.
Then I put a SUPER small dime (or smaller) size of (Cast Cruncher) leave in conditioner (this is 1 Option) in my hand and scrunch out the crunch and I’m left with soft bouncy curls as seen in the picture below.
Low porosity hair air dries faster. Hooded dryer produces flatness with very little volume (and this can be a great thing for many). Combo method works well to speed up the process = Hooded Dryer & Diffuser or if no hooded dryer – air dry as much as possible then Diffuse to create volume.
High porosity hair takes longer to air dry. More prone to Frizz and have internal halo if disturbed while drying. Air Dry or Hooded Dryer is recommended to dry hair in its natural state.
Thanks again Kristen –
I hope this will add to how you diffuse your hair as Kristen gets awesome curls from her wavy hair – she does way better than I do working with her hair, so this is all about patience and going slowly with lower heat and air flow that is not blasting out fast with hot air – slow down for best results.
I have clients with all forms of diffusers and they all work – but I really do love and recommend the Deva Diffuser. The hand part really gets close to the scalp when you insert it into your hair and then cup the ends up to the hand – as this diffuser has duel air flow – meaning it comes out at both sides of the hand attachment.
Diffusing Curly Hair is an Art Form and is MagiCurl!
There is so much confusion in our industry about products.
That confusion is based on application methods and ingredients by NON PROFESSIONALS.
So much information out there on line, websites, youtube and various other pages that are consumer driven – meaning they are created and written from a consumer mentality. Many even promote and call themselves self proclaimed ‘product junkies’. Product Junkies are dominating the field of curly hair information. This is causing confusion and hurting professionals.
The goal of this Blog is to bring you knowledge based on Professional Experience and is backed up by multiple people in a profession that have a passion and desire to help clients and consumers better understand their Curly Hair – and to make it simplified…once you practice and understand it. Another by-product of following professional guidelines is to take a rest from searching for the perfect product and to find peace with using quality ingredients to solve your curly hair issues. Some people spend more money on Coffee than they do for a bottle of product.
Fusion Blending is a method of using professional silicone free / water soluble / and even in the Kitchen products and ingredients to fuse them together by blending them to create NEW Options & Possibilities from a professional perspective.
It is time to name and claim quality professional product lines that fit this bill and collaborate to help curly hair people use them correctly based on Industry Leading Curly Hair Professionals and not ‘product junkies’ (read that again please).
Con-Fusing is a method of mixing products haphazardly with ingredients that create solutions BUT are not water soluble and are filled with heavy oils and silicones, parabens and polymers that create a coating of plastic around your hair like a shrink wrapped ‘slim jim’. Over time, this destroys your hair and creates an endless loop of trying to find the next best thing to help you hair.
What a Professional does is master one system of Water Soluble silicone free Hair Care Products. Once fully understood, tested and been through a trial of failure and success’s – a professional can cocktail the products within the system to create new possibilities. Cocktailing is mixing a couple/three products (within a system) to increase their effectiveness.
Some will take on another System that meets the requirements of their Vision and once fully understood and mastered by trials, tests and research – can be then Fused with the other system…Blended.
I can only imagine when Chef’s from France started to infuse elements of Vietnamese cooking into their dishes. This created an up-roar with in the French Community of Chefs. But the public LOVED it.
It takes a Master to blend and fuse ingredients from other cultures (or companies) together to create new combinations.
I personally LOVE Asian infused southern barbecued chicken. Mixing fresh Ginger and quality Soy Sauce INTO my favorite BBQ sauce and apply on grilled chicken at the end of the grilling to sear onto the chicken along with the grill taste is unbelievable.
Very simple ingredients, but a complex taste, combined together to create a new experience.
There is another source of inspiration for Fusion Blending that I found from the movie Miracle on 34th Street and it came at the moment that Santa found out there were no more toys and as he was working at Macy’s Store and hired by them…Santa did the unheard of (do you remember?) he recommended another store (!) that had the presents for their children on shelves. This upset the corporate giants to no end…until they started hearing from the patrons how grateful they were for the recommendation and that this opened up a new level of trust for them to continue shopping with Macy’s in the future. So, for them – in the end- it only builded trust and even more sales.
I call this “The Curly Clause” – helping Curly Hair people by offering other options to help them with their curly hair problems that go beyond corporate recommendations. It is bringing clarity and aid to those who have product sensitivities, allergies to certain ingredients or fragrances or are having a hard time adjusting to certain issues that are producing frustrating problems or dislikes – and clients have and will abandon a quality product line all together from lack of knowing what to do. People are leaving quality products and going for information from ‘product junkies’ on-line, all over the place -and then bringing that confusion back to our professional industry.
This has got to stop or help bring to a halt or someone has to step up to bring some clarity for caring for your curls that has professionally backed up experience. We can get focused excellent results without confusion. Let me give you a couple of examples:
Here are a couple of Fusion Blending ideas using Deva and or Household ingredients:
A recent example of Fusion Blending comes our friend Melissa Stites over at her Facebook Page “There Once Was a Curl” and uses Deva’s No Poo. Once she gets toward the end of the bottle – a memory trigger is set off – that works like this: she goes through a bottle of No Poo once a month and as she reaches the end of the bottle, this will trigger a memory to ‘clarify and cleanse’. So, she adds a splash of Apple Cider Vinegar to her bottle – along with a splash of water – mixes it up and cleanses with it. This removes any build up and adds a bit of shine and bounce to her refreshed curls (her own words).
The book Curly Girl by Lorraine Massey has a wonderful Fusion Blend to help remove toxins, chlorine and to help with those that have Hard Water or dry damaged hair by using the juice of one Lemon and blending it with the amount of ‘cone free conditioner you use and leave in for a bit and rinse out. Smells wonderful and gives beautiful results. She calls it “Lemon Aid” and she has other Fusion Blending ideas in her book that work with silicone free water soluble products that are from professional product lines and even your kitchen. This inspired me to write this article – to use Professional products and in-kitchen ingredients to produce Curly Girl Results.
I will now add a couple of Possibilities that utilize professional lines and some others from your kitchen:
Here are a couple of Fusion Blending ideas using different water soluble silicone free Professional Products:
Take a gum ball size amount of Deva’s Believe in and spray in 2-4 pumps or drops of Jessicurl’s Oil Blend and apply this all over as a gentle shine agent that fills in – along with the bit of conditioner you can leave in. Apply a Foam or Gel on top to seal it all up. Works wonders for High Porosity hair.
Fusion Blending can also happen by layering products that are harmonious such as applying Jessicurl’s Confident Coils (apply 2-4 drops of Oil Blend for even better results on High Humidity or Rainy days) – this will fill in the frizz and create ‘softness’ with some shine. Then apply Deva’s Ultra Defining Gel on top or use their Frizz Free Foam for more humidity blocking frizz free hair – this seals up all the hydration and creates hold that can be very nice most of the day that is soft and shiny. I use this on my own Low Porosity Corki-Curls with amazing results.
To End – it takes experience and knowledge of hair types and ingredients to masterfully blend and fuse products together – ESPECIALLY Fusion Blending with water based silicone free ingredients. It is time to name and claim professional products that Fuse and Blend together wonderfully – to collaborate in helping solve many issues that the Curly People need help with. A whole new level of trust opens up when you do this and as The Curly Clause indicates – opens up NEW sales and continued success. I have even found that it brings back people who have abandoned professional lines – this opens new doors of opportunity that was lost at one point.
So, It is very easy to do with silicones, parabens, excessive use of oils and polymers but this again causes Con-Fusion with your hair, routine and long term consequences of damage and hair breaking off keeping you on an endless journey for the next best thing. Let us know when you are tired.
Fusion Blending on the other hand is MagiCurl!